The Chronicles of South Bombay (1960s-70s)

Bombay’s Hidden Heart: A Love That Defied Time and Transformed a City

• History
• Romance
• Short story
• Fiction

								
It was the summer of 60’s when a man in his mid-20s, a seasoned individual named Ashok dropped off at Victoria Terminus, the grand structure standing as the testament of British Rule, describing the city’s colonial architecture. Gothic architecture is remarkable because of its British Architect and Engineer, Frederick William Stevens. 

It was still early in the morning, with its intricate stone carvings and towering spires, loomed over him, casting long shadows. Starting in 1878, in a location south of the old Bori Bunder railway station, it took nearly a decade to transform to serve the roots of its colonial Masters. A mark to commemorate the 50 years of Queen Victoria’s rule. Ashok was thrilled to read about the past it represented and its significance. With dreams as big as the Arabian Sea that bordered this bustling metropolis he desired to make the best of it.

Reinvigorated from College in Bengal, Ashok had secured an internship as a junior clerk at a prestigious law firm in South Bombay, in a city with its oath of opportunity and fable beckoned him with open arms. The narrative behind Bombay being an opportunistic state post-independence lies in its colonial past. 

“The Coastal City facilitates trade and generates camaraderie in markets for businesses from various parts of the country, allowing it to grow as an economic hub for its people. The rapid industrialization created a unique cosmopolitan culture.”

As Sharada Dwivedi & Rahul Mehrotra in their book “Bombay: The Cities Within”, traces the transformation of Bombay from a colonial port city to a global metropolis. Bombay's evolution can be understood in four parts, first associated with its Portuguese takeover in the mid-16th century, followed by the growth period until the 1890s, thirdly the epidemic outbreak and renewed urban conditions, and last the evolution to modernity to date. 

As he stepped off the station, the bustling streets of Bombay with honking cars, trams, the mellifluous calls of street vendors, and the lively energy of the city welcomed him. He was thrilled by the kind of freedom he felt while entering such a big city at a time when it got to be known as the financial capital of the time.The process of turning it into a financial capital was started in the early 20th century, however after the World War-II the process was intensified with the factors like the relocation of the central bank and other economic impacts.




“An interesting fact about Bombay, the history of Trams in India, a topic that demands special attention. You’ll still find trams in India, in some parts of West Bengal, However, for Bombay on March 31, 1964, the last tram was seen journeying through Mumbai’s streets, bidding farewell between Bori Bunder and Khodadad Tram Terminus, now known as Dadar TT. 

This was a historic moment in itself as a large crowd gathered to witness this farewell which was for some the end of an era.”

The first glimpses of the city were remarkable for him, however leaving his home, and coming to a new city, where he didn't know anyone, filled him with anxiety, he was curious and eager to explore, make new friends and even find love.

From there, he took a Tram to Pilot Bunder Road and had a simple stay at Colaba which is famous for its quality of colonial architecture. He stayed at a Chawl in the suburb of Colaba which was a little cramped but had a window facing the main street. Nightfall would bring the soft melodies emanating from the nearby cafés frequented by band members and the chatter of neighbours clustered outside on the front square of the staircases of the chawl.

His first few days in Bombay were a blur of paperwork, introduction at the law firm, and finding his footing in a new city. He was struggling to adapt to these changes as a fresh graduate; it was his first position. Still lost about finding himself in the midst of this new environment where he was to settle in. One evening when the sky was darkened by the clouds, after a particularly long day at work, Ashok found himself wandering through the streets of Colaba, seeking an escape from his monotonous life cycle. The beauty of the light drizzle adorned the streets. He passed Regal Cinema, where movie posters of Dev Anand’s Guide embellished the plain walls. 

As he was settling in, he found a flyer for a local gathering at the Wayside Inn, a favoured cafe among the city's artists and intellectuals. Authors like RK Narayan wrote many parts of their novels sitting in the beauty of the environment that Wayside Inn was known for, Over the years authors and writers have seen Wayside Inn as more than just a cafe, it served the purpose of a cultural institution that provided a space for creativity that has been reflected in various masterpieces by various authors of the age. 

“Eventually, with the challenges the cafe faced high competition in the market from newer establishments that started to replace it, and with increasing rents, Wayside Inn closed its doors in 2002, marking the end of an era. Some locals who lived through their time still keep the cafe in their memories as a place where modern Indian history took place. As per an article written in “Mid-Day” an e-paper, the cafe’s Table No. 4 was where Babasaheb Ambedkar laid down large tracts of the Indian Constitution in 1948. Curious and eager to feel at ease in this new city, Ashok decided to attend the gathering at the cafe.”

As he stepped into the cafe, he stumbled upon a lively crowd engaged in ebullient discussions. At first, he felt like an outsider, wondering whether he would fit in with these people or not. He was surrounded by a lot of questions inside his head. And then he saw Ajay, a bold young man studying at St.Xavier’s College. Ajay was a student of History, very interested in preserving Bombay’s cultural heritage, particularly the Old Library in the Fort Area, which was under threat of demolition. The Old Library in modern-day Mumbai’s Fort Area, now known as the Asiatic Society of Mumbai Library, dates back to 1804. 

I remember even when I saw it today it had the same walls that can put one into a very deep point of the intelligentsia. 

“It was originally known as the Literary Society of Bombay and later became the Asiatic Society of Bombay. The building itself where the town hall is housed was constructed between 1821 and 1833 and is remarkably known for its neoclassical architecture in the city.”

As he sat down with a coffee to suit himself, with a book in his hand, his gaze met with Ajay while he was explaining to a group of people that the library was not just a brick structure, but served as a repository of the city’s intellectual history. Ashok found himself staring longer than he should have. Their eyes met briefly, and Ashok quickly pulled away in embarrassment, feeling a rush of heat in his face turning him red. It was different and something new for Ashok to feel this way while looking at a man. Ajay kept on explaining how the library was embraced by literary giants like R.K Narayan, and Mulk Raj Anand.

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